Rebuidling after the flood - tips from Katharine Nicholson

Rebuilding after the flood

We’re assuming the house was gutted. If no rebuild was planned, you may still need to pull the nails out of the studs on the surfaces that will hold dry wall. And all trash should go to the curb. Workers will need space to work, store drywall, etc.

Start a list of tasks unskilled volunteers can do. United Way is coordinating volunteers or can tell you who is. Volunteers are typically used to insulate & to paint, although some volunteers are able to drywall, etc. and do trim. Often one experienced person can instruct a group of volunteers.

Print Building Permit application off the web, www.icgov.org/site/CMSv2/File/permits/bldgprmapp.pdf - There is no fee for flood rebuilds, so it isn’t critical to answer the dollar amount questions. You don’t have to know all your subcontractors either, but may need to enter a general contractor or put the owner for that. Submit the application to the city. Any contractor not the owner must be one licensed by the city.
Next the city will send someone to inspect that the structure of the house is sound & the moisture level is down. Then they will give you a building permit. It needs to be kept on the premises.
An electrician must bring wiring up to code. City will inspect & sign off on it. Do not cover any of it up before it’s inspected – hold off on insulation & drywall if electrical wires go behind it.Plumbing must be brought up to code (Can be started before or during item 2 as long as it doesn't cover up electrical wiring that city will inspect.) This includes such things as gas service reestablished, check and repair water lines, HVAC checkout. Plumber does gas lines as well as water lines. Plumbing inspector will visit and sign off.

Now insulation can be put up on all the exterior & garage walls & covered with plastic vapor barrier. Volunteers can do this.In the garage, 5/8 inch sheetrock put up on walls for a firewall (the walls common with living portion of house) – no tape and mud needed before insulation, but is required before final inspection to move in.

***** The house is now winter ready. *****

To make it ready for occupancy we continue:It may be practical to use volunteers to do the sheet rocking and experienced volunteers for the taping, mudding and texturing. With professional drywallers the process takes about 6 days.
Hot water heater installed.Volunteers can paint.

Bathroom: It would need to be returned to prior condition. Plumber won’t install at least some of the toilet tanks, basins, etc. until drywalling is doneKitchen: Here the bare bones approach would be quickest. A small dorm room fridge would work until a larger unit could be found. A microwave and hot plate could be used until a stove unit and the oven were installed. Enough counter space and cabinet space to get a working kitchen up and going. It would be lot like a lake cottage and grow into a more presentable state over time.Living space: A sealer should be applied to the bare concrete floors. This will keep the concrete dust down and still not be a problem when the permanent floor is put down. If some rooms are to be closed off & not heated, then they need to be sheet rocked also & doors installed.The electrician returns for installation of receptacles, switches & plates. This must happen after dry wall is up and painting done.

The building inspector returns for a final occupancy inspection. He will check electrical continuity, proper use of GFI receptacles, appliance venting, smoke alarms, etc. Once he signs off the owners can move back in. It may be possible to move back in before the interior drywalling is done.Aside from furniture, owner will need a washer and dryer to make living there a lot more comfortable.A finished kitchen, flooring, paint and finished trim can be done over the winter with volunteers as budget allows. Remember to check for supplies at Habitat ReStore.